And, the actual price is...

As they say on The Price is Right: And, the actual price is... (I think that is what they say, haven't watched that show in a long time...)  If you didn't yet see the last blog post, take a moment to guess the various prices of these items.

 

Actual price: $1.30  Eggs have, at one store, gone from $1.10 when I arrived to $1.30.  And, the extra bonus points to those who realized eggs here are not sold by the dozen.  They are sold in cartons of ten at the store. Though, you can also buy them in the market.  I have not yet tried that to see how much they cost.  That may be my next adventure.  Though, I am a little scared of accidentally getting one with a chick inside... Animal carcass falling into my brownie batter seems unfortunate... Side note, people here eat fertilized eggs as a specialty item.  I will not be having that crunchy cultural experience.

 

Actual Price: $2.80 - I have shopped around to three different markets and at some the cheapest butter is $3.40.  Too bad the cheap butter is the farthest from my house...

 

Actual Price: $4.60

 

Actual Price: $1.60 (is the cheapest price I have seen and remember)

 

Actual Price: $0.50 - $0.67  I think the lady there has gotten to know me because I buy a hand of bananas at least twice each week.  I also think she realized I wasn't going to barter so she raised the asking price from $0.50 to $0.67.  Once we jump to $0.75, I will say price (as they say for bargain) like my life depends on it.  That right there will break the piggy bank ;)

 

Actual Price: $1.25 BUT THEY ARE SO GOOD!  And, we haven't had to buy them for a while thanks to my generous teacher giving me some from her family's trees.  I wonder if I can grow a mango tree on the balcony of my apartment...

 

Actual Price: $0.67 (Dragon Fruit in case you forgot what that is)

 

Actual Price: $0.67 - Doesn't that beautiful color just make you want to lick it!?!  FYI, bad idea if you have a touch screen...

 

Actual Price: $0.50

 

Actual Price: $0.50

So, how'd you do?  Did you have to phone a friend?  Did you want to buy a vowel?  Use a life line?  Are you the Weakest Link?  Were you voted off the island?  What is, please stop using game show references?  :)

*Side note: I got a little closer to all of you in the US last night.  We don't have day light savings time here, so I am now 14 hours off of the West Coast and 11 hours from the East Coast.  (The other amounts were so much easier to calculate).  And, last tangent, I recently had a conversation with my teacher in Khmer.  I told him I spoke with my sister in the morning and he said, "Oh, is it 8pm there for your family?"  I said, "Yes, for my sister.  It is 5pm for the rest of my family."  He looked confused (more so than when I usually am speaking).  I, then, attempted to explain time zones.  He said, "Huh.  Cambodia is all the same."  I laughed, "And said, that is because Cambodia is the same size as one state in my country :)"  So, this is your question to be answered next time.  What state is roughly the same size as Cambodia?  (Ok, there are probably multiple states but if you guess the one I am thinking of, you get kudos. I may have mentioned it in an earlier blog).

T'lie Pone Mawn

T'lie Pone Mawn means how much does it cost (t-as in talk + lie - as in don't tell one, Pone rhymes with bone, Mawn rhymes with dawn, as in when I get up).  This is my favorite, or least favorite, phrase at the market.  Following their response you are supposed to respond, "T'lie Pake (rhymes with bake) and ask if they can do... some price less.  I am usually in what I call a USAmerican mood where I don't want to haggle for my bananas when they are only asking 50 cents for the bunch.  Plus, given the fact that I make around twice the living wage for a family of three in the city, or about eight times what a factory worker makes, I find it a bit stingy to haggle over 25 cents.  I always go back to, which of us really needs that 25 cents more, thus, enjoy your 25 cents, seller lady.  This is a point of debate among missioners, and my teachers, many of whom think it is cultural to bargain and we should pay no more than the locals, I have a different opinion, as you can see, but that is not the point of this post, I digress.

I have prepared this great guessing game for you called, T'lie Pone Mawn.  Think of it as The Price is Right - Cambodia style.  Though, you have nothing but your pride to gain. I contemplated a price, but really don't want to calculate numerically how close everyone is.  If you want to let me know your guesses, you are still welcome to do so.  The rules are this, below are some pictures of various items I purchase (on a regular basis).  I will describe the item and You get to guess how much each one costs.  Next blog update, I will give you the answers.

Good luck!

 

#1 Chicken Eggs -  You must specify here as duck eggs are also popular.  I have had them...once.  That was enough.  They have a MUCH stronger flavor than chicken eggs.  Bonus points, if you correctly notice one major difference between my carton of eggs and your normal carton in the states.

 

 

#2 Butter - This is the way butter is sold here.  I have seen it from Australia, New Zealand... and at least one other place.  I have tried all the cheapest brands and this is definitely the best.  It is a good thing I bake so much in the states that I can guesstimate a tablespoon well, as it is not marked (or marked only in grams)

 

#3 Best Oatmeal -  This is from Australia, I think.  I had only been able to find the quick oats, which are sooo mushy.  Thus, finding rolled oats was a particularly great moment.  

  

#4 - Baking friends, this is how yeast is sold here.  I am guessing because most normal, everyday folks don't have ovens.  Thus, only professional bakers buy yeast.  I actually didn't buy this because another lay missioner had bought it a few months ago and never opened it, thus, I was gifted this awesomeness.  If I come back to the states during my stay here, I will take orders for anyone who wants cheap yeast ;)

 

All of the above items are purchased as a supermarket (some are much more western than others).  A few things to note: 1) Many 'western' foods can be found in the super markets, almost anything you would want.  The catch, you will be paying a HUGE amount for many of these imported items; 2) Prices are not consistent on these items, week to week, they will change.  In my month, I have seen items increase by up to a quarter at the exact same place.  Not sure if this is an inflation thing or simply the person with the price gun selected a different price at the time of labeling;  3) These places have fruit and veggies BUT it is all wrapped in plastic and Styrofoam (so my environmentalist side cringes) and it is not nearly as fresh as the market.

 

# 5 Bananas - Here, they sell bananas by the "hand"  I can't say I had heard that term before coming here but since I had to learn it is Khmer, I now know it in English, too.  These are one of three kinds of bananas they have here.  I have only been able to find two in the market.  These little ones are super sweet, and I think I had similar in Nicaragua back in my youth...  Fun fact, in Khmer Sign Language, they have three different signs for banana because there are three different kinds.  So, how much is one hand?

 

#6 Mangoes -  My one true love.  These puppies are something I really should bargain over, as they are the most expensive thing I buy but I just can't muster the energy to do it... Someday.  Maybe I will take my language teacher with me someday and she can teacher me the art of bargaining.  She actually has a mango tree in her front yard and brought me seven mangoes, so I won't have to go bargaining for the week :)

 

 

 

#7 Dragon Fruit - These are Dragon Fruit, for those not familiar with them.  I forgot to take a picture of the inside (it is white with small black seeds).  See here.   I have decided I want a dragon fruit inspired dress...  Fashion designers, GO!

 

#8 Watermelon - Chinese New Year time is apparently melon time!  This was DELICIOUS!  If I wasn't so worried about my stomach, I would probably live on fruit here.  It is all So GOOD!  These little melons are smaller than the US but look...

 

It is not a fake watermelon like the ones in the states!  It has seeds.  If you have ever been around me while I eat watermelon, you have probably heard my rant about how the fake watermelons these days are going to ruin the youth of the future because they will not know how to have a seed spitting contest.  County fairs everywhere are suffering... But, not in CAMBODIA!

 

 

#9 Carrot - Next Khmer word for you, Care-ott.  Yup, did I feel like a stooge after asking for a kilo of those to be told those were called Care-otts ;)  They are big and fat and delicious here!  It is basically like a farmers' market being my only source of veggies.  But, not DC farmers' market prices.  Hint #1

 

 

#10 - And, last but not least.  These lovely green peppers went into my Mexi-style rice and beans.  My language teachers think it is super weird that I eat beans and rice together.  They don't know what they are missing.

Ok, so those are all your pictures for which you must guess prices/costs.  READY, GO!  

(You can either write down your answers and save for your future checking, or put them in the comments.  I will be curious to know how you do!)

And, as Bob Barker would say, "Always have your pets spayed or neutered." Or, since this is Cambodia, "Rabies shots people!"  ;)

All work and no play?

"All work and no play?"  may have been your response to my last post, so I want to ensure you my life is filled with fun adventures that are not study related, in the language learning sense.

A part from just getting around, here are a few recent adventures that were photographed...

On Valentine's Day, we celebrated Meak Bochea Day - just happened to fall on the same day.
*Side note the consumerist Valentine's Day is seeping in, especially among the youth.  It doesn't really have a good reputation though, as it largely is about people just wanting to do mattress dancing...

So, Buddhist holiday...  On this day, a group of monks gathered to pay homage to the Buddha.  He took the opportunity to give the three precepts of the religion: perform good deeds, refrain from doing harm, and cleanse the mind (as you can see, basically, the same as Valentine's Day).  Or, so my orientation book says.  Many people have this day off (it is a government holiday).  Also, supposedly folks go to the Wat nearest their home and there are candlelit processions.  This seemed like something worth seeing so I covered as much skin as possible and headed to the Wat.

As I approached one side of the Wat I heard the quick, rhythmic chanting of monks but saw no one around.  My hope was to find some elderly ladies heading into the Wat and trail them.  First, because I could mimmick their behavior to not offend, and because elderly ladies in all cultures are the first to tell you if you are doing something offensive.  No Cambodian Grannies were around so I figured I would walk to the other side of the Wat (it takes up about four blocks).  As I approached the main street, I heard a completely new cacophony of drumming, shouting, and horns honking.  As I rounded the corner, I saw a huge throng of people headed my direction.  After quickly discerning it was not a political protest, as those should be avoided, I joined the other folks converging in store fronts and along the streets to watch the parade.

There were Chinese dragon dancing, with the assistance of youth, in a menagerie of colors.  There were multiple trucks all decked out with colorful flags and costumed people.  Folks were milling around these 'floats' dispensing yellow sheets of paper with red script to anyone that wished to pay a small fee (some kind of blessing from what I could gather).  Each float seemed to have one particular figure elaborately clothed and central to all the commotion.  One appeared to be licking the yellow blessing sheets before they were distributed.   The traffic on the street was slowed to a crawl by all the rubber-necking and the sheer number of people who seemed to rise out of the heat and pavement.  Motos stopped, phones were taken out for photos, business as the local tile shop seemed to come to a halt as buyers and sellers alike flocked to the street.  It was a sight to be seen.

As I was planning to go to the Wat, I had not brought a camera - still figuring out how I feel about photographing religious events.  I observed for ten minutes and decided this was worth sharing with all of you, so walked the five minutes home to get my camera, unsure if the parade would continue.  Along my way, I was hissed at by one private security guard (I have decided a law should be passed world wide that if you are 'harassed' you should have the right to throw a raw egg at the person...) and was wished Happy Valentine's Day by a number of tuktuk drivers.  Upon my return with a camera, the parade still continued (probably for another 10 minutes).  It was not really moving at that point, it basically parked for 20 minutes and then continued down the street.  My language teacher told me this holiday is celebrated in this way by the Chinese population - it is supposedly much bigger in China.  He said some Khmer also will now join in on the excitement.

I didn't actually end up going into the Wat, as I found no Grannies to trail, but the parade was worth the walk.  Great metaphor for how the adventure we have is not always, or rarely, the adventure we plan.  As this ended up being longer, I than I thought, I will save other adventures for future posts.

Enjoy a small bit of the parade (I think I may have finally figured out this embedding thing correctly):

Meak Bochea Day

Meak Bochea Day

A Day in the Life of Karen

A day in the life of Karen...*

 

On this particular Monday morning, I needed to finish my attempt at making bread.  Based on my needed arrival time at school, that meant the alarm went off bright and early...  Wallace the bear was less than pleased.

 

After getting the bread dough mixed and rising, I headed out for a run.  The best time to run here is between 4:30am and 6:30am - in my opinion.  It is still dark for much of that time.  This means 1) Fewer people are going to comment on the crazy running white girl; 2) It is cooler; 3) And most importantly, there is less traffic at this time of day.  Unfortunately, my success rate is low and I have only managed to get out between 2-3 times per week.  It is always great when I do.  There are loads of folks out on the streets cooking, cleaning, or walking.  Once I get to the Olympic Stadium, and a bit along the way, there are always folks doing calisthenics (AKA dancing and waving around their arms).

 

After running, it is most important to stretch!  Love the AWEA yoga mat one of my colleagues gifted me.  This is definitely within the top ten most used possessions I brought with me.

 

My language school schedule currently includes a morning chunk of time and an afternoon chunk of time.  Thus, I must take lunch.  Gotta love the rice cooker! And, I have gotten in the terrible habit of leaving my evening dishes for the morning... I usually just want to go to bed by the time I have  break to think.

 

Showering is usually a good thing to do after running... And, when living in 90 degree weather :)

 

And, homework with my lovely oatmeal breakfast.  My language teacher enjoys making fun of me because we always talk about what I did the day before (in Khmer, of course).  A few weeks back I learned to say breakfast and so he always asks what I ate.  The answer is always the same.

 

Multi-tasking is also an important skill...  Here is the rest of my lunch.  Some yellow beans and stir-fry veggies!  SO GOOOOOOD!  

 

Rising bread...

 

And, this is me realizing I am late!  EEK!  I used to walk to school and was supposed to leave at 9:30am... Needless to say, I often had to walk VERY quickly.  I now have a bike and can get there in under ten minutes on a good traffic day - AKA if all the spaces between motos/cars exactly align at the moments I reach intersections. Quality of life, increased dramatically with my wheels :)

 

Language school!  Due to my nearly tardy arrival, I didn't have time to get a time piece in this shot but it was probably about 9:58am.  I spend four-five hours each day here.  My schedule is different every day but on this particular day.  I have my male teacher from 10-12, then an hour long break.  After that, I have my female teacher from 1-3pm.  This includes learning new words, speaking Khmer, learning to write and read, saying lots of things incorrectly, making all kinds of 'strange' noises, laughing a lot.

 

Lunch at language school.  Thankfully, they have an unused classroom in which I can eat and study.  You can't read the time on my classy mobile but it is around 1ish.  Look at that colorful lunch!

 

After language school, I usually walk home and give myself a mental break.  And, have a snack.  As those of you on facebook know, FRESH MANGO is possibly my favorite food in the world.  SO GOOD!  I usually read or respond to emails for my 'mental recharge.'  Though, by 4:30/5pm, I need to start studying and doing my homework. 

 

As you can see, maybe, by all the junk in the background, I spread out over an extensive space when I study.  And usually eat dinner and keep on studying.  Again, note this was probably not a week I was reading a book.  This past week, I was so engrossed in my book that I was a terrible study-er.  Fortunately, I seem to retain well enough without studying us much, so my teachers have not yet been able to figure out when I do or don't study.  As long as I get eight hours of sleep, I function well (note contributing factor to not getting out running).

On this particular day, I also had to finish bread making.  You will notice, this bread is rather sad.  I have been trying to learn my oven and it has been at times a frustrating process.  I finally sought advice and have now increased the gas flow (suggestion of my Maryknoll groupmate) and started covering things with a large wok to hold in heat.  I also have played with the liquid proportions.  I joined this awesome bread maker message board and posted my problem.  A number of folks offered some great suggestions and things are now working much better.   I will have to post some photos of better bread experiences so I don't lose my baker street cred.

 

This was an exceptionally long day, but finally, I was able to collapse into bed.  Wallace the Bear beat me there. 


*Please note: my day does not usually start this early, as much as I would like it to begin so early.  Nor is my day this productive always.  I just happened to photo document a incredibly 'good' day by perfectionist-over-achiever standards.  Usually, my day starts one to two hours after this, depending on my personal motivation and how late I was up reading...  Though, the basics of this day are a good representation.  LOTS of time on language, food prep, and just normal daily things :)

Doyc K'nia, Ko K'nia, Part I

Doyc K'nia (pronounced Doy- like boy - "ku," "Ku," nia - rhymes with Kia)  Ko K'nia (Ko=co, K'nia same as before)  These are my phonetics for Same, Different in Khmer.  That is basically a summary of my new life here.  Many aspects are the same, but not.  Here are just a few examples from my house (and now y'all can see where I am living).

1 - This is my room. Notice my level of tidiness has not improved.  Was going to tidy up for the photo but that would be misrepresentation....

It basically looks like my room in the states.

This photo is a misrepresentation of my room in the states :)  You will notice significantly more blankets on that bed though...


Differences: There are light switches that don't actually control anything...  One of these controls the light in the hall.  This is the only switch controlling that light...

I also have my own wall fan and AC. 

I strive to never use that AC, as it would cost mucho dinero (oops... wrong language).


2- In the US, I would drink water from the tap.  Many of you know this because if you offered me filtered water, I would say "Does your water have Cholera?"

This is where I get my water here...  Lovely filter, don't you think?  Oddly, not drinking tap water is not difficult for me to do.  I only once put it accidentally on my toothbrush (and some people say it is fine to use for brushing, so, I didn't panic much).

3 - This is my stove. 

 Difference...

No temperatures indicated... From what I can gather, the oven gets to about 300 degrees... This is based on how well, or not well, things seem to be baking... Ovens and stoves are not super common in the non-ex-pat community here.  Stoves are a bit more common but I definitely still see people cooking with charcoal on the side walk with a little stove when I run in the wee hours of the morning.

4- This is my dishwasher...
....
....
...
...
...
I am not living in the Ritz after all...

5 - This is my washing machine. 

When it drains the water, this is where it goes...  

 Trust me.  I had a 1st world reaction the first time I walked into the bathroom while doing laundry and the entire floor was flooded.

7-  These are my stairs to our second floor.

Just looking at this, you will probably think, they look like stairs.  Well, a few years back, my father was explaining to me how architects/builders make all the steps the same depth.  This way your brain knows exactly how high you have to step with each step.  Let's just say, my father needs to have that conversation with a few people :)  My brain can't take any step for granted.  I think I used that same line in a blog about my broken foot...

8 - Many of you will know, when asked in my interview, "What do you think will be one of your greatest challenges living abroad?"  I quickly replied, "Cold Showers."  I am a fairly adaptable person but freezing water cascading over me invokes screams of sheer terror and discomfort.  I know, it is a privileged perspective but there it is.  SO, this little contraption was possibly my favorite discovery of my home. 

This is a one shower - water heater.  Clearly, my prayers "Please help me be able to deal with cold showers." were answered :)

She who hesitates is lost

The old adage says, "She who hesitates is lost."  When it comes to walking, biking, moto'ing, or just getting around in Cambodia lost can be best translated as smooshed.  This does not mean one should go jumping in front of moving vehicles.  That would not be advisable in any country.  This means one must move with determination and purpose while simultaneously observing everything going on, in every direction, at all times.  Though, it is safest to make the bold assumption that what is going on behind you is not your responsibility but that of those going on behind you...  Unless, you are coming to an intersection and people may be turning left or right to run you over...  Additionally, contrary to USA-logic, it is really wisest to walk with the flow of traffic (very few people walk and it confuses them even more if you are walking on the left side of the road, I will refrain from right or wrong side here...).

Cambodia traffic was explained to me in this way: Imagine you have two lanes of traffic - one heading in each direction.  Now, between where the street and sidewalk wold be in the US context, add another lane of traffic on both sides heading in the opposite direction as the traffic on that side of the street.  Why?  You may ask.  Oh, you have so much to learn.  This is my explanation of the above concept...

Let's look at some pictures:
Traffic A:

 

Looks nice you may say, what is crazy Karen talking about.  Well, this is a street in my mother country.  Not here.

 

This is the average street I encounter daily.  So, you may be quick to judge and say, "Those folks need to learn to drive."  Slow-down you Californians, New Yorkers, and DC-ites, we say the same about you. ;)  There is really great logic here.  If you want to go from street A to Street B (turn-offs indicated on this to scale rendering of an actual street), you simply take a sharp left and stay on the left side until street B when you take another left.  Why in the world would you cross a lane of traffic just to cross back?  Or, same story for C and D.  Furthermore, if you are turning off C and want to go to A, your best bet is to turn from C and than sneak through a gap between cars (like the first two arrows heading to your right).  Think of it as a suicide lane... ish... literally :)  Oh, and the purple circles are pedestrians.  Any sidewalks that exist here, almost exclusively, are used for small shops to set out their wares.

Think you've got this down?  Let me walk you through an intersection (if only I was a game designer, I would totally make this into a video game for you to play... I'd call it Cambodi Crush.. I'm sure facebook fiends everywhere would soon be obsessed).

 

Ok, so intersections have cars... And, probably no stop signs or street lights.  Though, some do have one of those two things.  Folks respect them about as much as I do on a bicycle, as long as nothing bigger is going to hit you, it is a kind yield request.  Also, I took the lines off the roads.  Who has lines on their roads anyway?  Aren't people smart enough to figure out how not to hit things without following the dotted line?

 

Now, add some motos, tuktuks, and bicycles.  They are all the same color because they function in a similar way just at slightly different speeds.  Also, this is a very unpopulated street (not the norm) but I didn't want to overwhelm you (and drawing lots of little yellow lines in paint was not the best use of my time).  So, you could handle this, right?

 

Add a sprinkling of pedestrians.  Remember, folks don't really walk and who knows which was they are heading.

 

Whew. Exhale.  That is looking more like it (Blue is a moto heading the 'counter-US' way, green is a car heading the 'counter-US' way).  So, person "1" on a moto needs to turn left, sees an opening about a block before entering this picture so moves to the left and sneaks in front of on coming traffic to complete the turn - whew.  Person "2," same deal-io.  Biker "3" wants to go left so takes advantage of the gap between cars and heads over.  The traffic heading to your right provides a nice screen.  "4" cuts over to the left early and banks a hard left, probably going between the oncoming pedestrian and moto and will continue straight until there is a gap to cut right.  "6" is a car and will follow the same ideas as "4" but must move more slowly as that sharp turn is tough.  "5" wants to go left but didn't get over soon enough, should have pulled a "1," so will make an elongated U-turn as soon as their is a gap and then go right.  Still following?

 

 Insert the golden star who would like to get to the golden hexagon.  It is go time. First, take advantage of the motos heading down the road blocking the moto number "3," or was that a bike...  Then, use all the traffic heading toward your right as a barrier from the traffic heading up-screen (cars are the best shield, then tuktuks, then motos, then bikes, than other humans - especially large ones, pregnant ones, or those with children).  At the end of this pass, it is best to let the traffic going 'counter-US' to pass to your right, as they are in that secret inside lane.

The key to this last series of maneuvers was not to hesitate.  As I learned in China, if you walk at a consistent pace, you are predictable and 99% of the time traffic will maneuver around you.  Let's not talk about the 1%... That gets enough attention anyway.  Along with 47%, which is about the amount of time you will see this few shenanigans on the road.  At the end of this maneuver, the traffic heading in the same direction as the walker probably would have passed, creating (you got this) A GAP!

 

Notice how all the cars/motos have progressed.  "1" and "5" are now heading in the "US-Correct" direction.  "2" and "3" will no doubt be watching to the right for a gap.  "4" and "6" are taking advantage of the gap to cut over to the right side of the road (right being directional, not 'correct').  And, that little gold star sees a gap (using the cars and motos heading up screen as protection) she walks at a consistent pace up screen and then cuts right to the magical hexagon of success!

The End.    

Here you can see a video of my favorite intersection on the way to school.  Traffic comes from five ways, and, this clip makes it look far more chaotic than reality...