Vietnam Adventures

  

While not formally a part of my 'ministry' as a Maryknoll Lay Missioner, my recent trip to Vietnam was a good reminder that we are all called to minster to one another regardless of where we are.  And, sometimes that can mean taking people an a trip.  Last month, thanks to some Cambodian holidays, I had a chance to visit Saigon, Hanoi, and Halong Bay with three of my colleagues. Over a year ago, my former boss said, "You should consider getting together a group of staff to go traveling because many will not go without a guide."

Due to my love of planning travel adventures and inability to say no, I decided I might as well be the Mama Duck for a group of wanderlust souls. The group ended up being smaller than we had planned, but we had a blast!


Saigon

On our first night in town, I got to have a huge bowl of Pho! Normally, this uses a meat broth and thus is not vegetarian friendly but I was thrilled to find a vegetarian variety. It also just so happened to be Ho Chi Minh's 130^th birthday, so we wandered into a large performance honoring him. It was interesting to experience. Due to some misinformation, we ended up missing the water puppet show we hoped to attend so instead had our own adventure in the park.

Our second day was all about history. I have to admit this is one of the first times I have been to a museum at which the USA is not the good guy. The War Remnants Museum was fascinating and, of course, a wee bit depressing. My two Khmer colleagues knew little to nothing of the war so were really surprised by some of what they saw. Though, I think interpreting things like dioxin and agent orange to Cambodian Sign Language may have meant some information was lost in translation. They say you must understand a meaning to interpret well, so the odds were against my interpreting as I will never understand war.

In the afternoon, we continued our historical adventures to the Cu Chi tunnels. They are a network of underground passageways that were used by the North Vietnamese again the South Vietnamese and Americans. The people originally used them as a place to hide when the military came to take away men for forced recruitment but they later became a place where people would live (complete with kitchens). The people also used them to protect their land, building all kinds of boobie traps with natural materials. At some point during the war, the American troops brought over dogs to try to sniff out the tunnels, as the entrances were easily camouflaged. The people quickly learned that if they put the urine of American soldiers, peppers, or other herbs on the entrance to the tunnels, the dogs would not be able to detect them. Apparently, the urine of the Americans was ok, so the dogs would just move on. The tunnels were also incredibly narrow because the Vietnamese were very small and were also starving so they didn't need the tunnels to be big. The Australians in particular had a whole recruitment movement for slight-built men to join the army and go to Vietnam because they would fit in the tunnels. We had an opportunity to go into the tunnels (we all managed to complete about 70 meters, not the full 170 meters).

It was a little cramped and these tunnels had even been expanded to fit larger people. I was flattered at one point when a tourist told me she wished she understood whatever sign language I was using because she couldn't understand the English of the tour guide but saw that I did. It was overall a fascinating experience.

After our day of war history, in Saigon, we packed our bags to fly to Hanoi.  I realized, once we arrived in Saigon that I had taken something for granted: All travelers know the size restrictions for liquids on planes.  I told my co-workers, you need the small bottles to take on the plane.  To them, small sized meant the 150-300ml bottles instead of the huge family sized bottles.  In an attempt to save their soaps, we searched the markets high and low for travel bottles.  When none could be found, creativity kicked in.

 

And, we all had to drink a lot of yogurt...

Hanoi
 

 

Hanoi's winding, maze-like old district was an absolutely perfect location.  On our first day there, we had scheduled a free walking tour.  These tours are led by high school and college students that are studying English.  They have basic knowledge about different places in a certain area and also are thrilled to have an opportunity to practice English with a foreigner.  We had an opportunity to see some old temples, the market, try a plum of sorts, and visit the turtle lake.  I learned later that legend has it at one point a soldier threw his sword into the lake because he had given up all hope (there was a Romeo and Juliet type situation and an invasion that led to his dismal spirits).  A turtle allegedly took the sword in his mouth and returned it to the owner as a sign that all was not lost.  The turtle apparently just died recently.  The park surrounding the lake is AMAZING!.

 

Among the amazing sights there, we found this guy...

 

We didn't realize that in addition to being in Vietnam for Ho Chi Minh's birthday and elections, we matched our travel to President Obama and Secretary of State Kerry's Vietnam visit.   We didn't see the President but seeing Secretary Kerry was pretty cool.  After living in DC, I have to admit I was amazed at how low security levels were.  Our young tour guide, who was with us, was thrilled to know she had seen someone famous though a little disappointed it wasn't Obama because apparently she is a fan of his.

 

The free walking tour was such a great way to get a more personal feel for the city.  Our young guide, on the right, was very sweet and eager to share about the sights and sounds of Vietnam, as well as her life experiences.  We would highly recommend doing such a tour if you find yourself in Hanoi.

Another high point of Hanoi, which doesn't seem to be on the mainstream tourist circuit, is Lotte Tower (pun intended).  Coming from Cambodia, this may have been the most anticipated activity for my colleagues.  I don't think my Khmer colleagues had been in a building much over ten stories.

 

65-stories with a glass observation deck was a bit mind blowing.  

I had been to something similar to this in Shanghai, though that was 100 floors I believe (shout out to my GEB Students), but standing on glass that high up in the air takes a bit of mental pep-talk time.

 

"That is really high"

 

"You have to do this because other people will follow your lead." 

"What if the glass breaks and I fall 65 floors to my death?"

"I think I may wet myself!"

Once you get over that initial fear and get out on the glass.  It is actually fun to take crazy pictures.  Our group definitely spent at least one hour goofing around up in the sky.  There was no one else in the entire observation area most of the time we were there.

 

Love doing my crazy balance poses anywhere possible :)

Halong Bay

Due to our shortage of time, we took a very quick day trip to Halong Bay (around 8-9 hours in van roundtrip).  We saw the fighting/kissing chickens, though we didn't particularly see the resemblance to chickens...  Just being out among the rock formations, on the water, surrounded by nature... and tourists... was refreshing.  Two of my colleagues got to kayak for the first time in their lives.  It was just a quick paddle in a boat that didn't really seem sea-worthy, but definitely nostalgic for me and exciting for the others.  

My favorite part was definitely the visit to the caves.  I am sorry the photos do not do them justice, but it was just mind boggling to see what nature had created.  Many of the rock formations resembling ice cream likely also contributed to my love of the space...

 

And, this just felt like it should be in Lord of the Rings...

Our short trip was definitely just the minimum of this amazing country but I am so glad I had this opportunity to get to know Vietnam and my colleagues a wee bit better.  It also reminded me how much I love leading and planning trips like this.  So, if you ever need a trip planned, give me a shout :)

 

 

Meditating on Duck Embryos

Cambodia is a gorgeous country in so many ways.  This was the scene a few weeks back as I headed home from work.  Cameras could not capture the beauty of the gargantuan, deep orange sun sinking into the horizon.  Kids were playing soccer in the street with a small, hollow plastic ball.  Some of the adults sat on the curb or on small plastic stools watching the world go by in front of them.  They either chatted with those sitting nearby or would shout greetings to neighbors coming home from work.  Some folks meandered along with their shopping bags from the market holding fresh meat and vegetables for the evening meal.  It is a sight.  In many ways, presence seems to be valued in ways we seem to have forgotten in the USA.  When was the last time you saw people sitting on their stoops, shouting to their neighbors?

All was so tranquil (thankfully, I live on a fairly quiet street and am lucky enough that a few trees still stand).  That evening, as I settled in for some quiet meditation, all was calm.  I positioned myself on a pillow on the floor.  Just sitting there made me start to drip with sweat, "Oh well.  It is like my own private sweat lodge."  I started to try to let the thoughts slip from my mind as I settled down.  As I felt some of the days tension melt away, I suddenly heard a street vendor turn the corner, the loud speakers proclaiming "Hot duck embryos!  Two eggs, 37 cents!  Two eggs, 37 cents!"* 

As I sat, eyes closed, waiting for the noise to subside, I realized, my neighbors were making a purchase because the sound was not moving.  Apparently, all the neighborhood kids must have come running, because there it sat in front of my house shouting about this tasty snack.  I laughed out loud.  Oh, Cambodia.  I guess it is no different than chanting to let the brain slip into a peaceful place.  Though, I am not sure there has ever been a meditative chant about duck embryos...

Speaking of foods that you would not find sold from carts roaming the streets like the ice cream man in my motherland, I had the distinct pleasure of trying a new food recently.  As you know, I am a vege-cultutarian, aka I will give up my vegetarian ways to taste new cultural foods.  Recently at work, my co-workers were eating duck embryos and these little guys... 

 

Mmmmm... Frog leg.  I'm not gonna lie, after eating this, all I was thinking about is how evolved frogs are and that they are the best indicators for changes in the ecosystem.  Their little bodies detect things long before our tough skins ever can.  I was also thinking about all the frog species that have gone extinct due to the changes in climate...

*[Translated from Khmer and into US currency for understanding]

Life is a Classroom

Throughout my life, I have gotten in the habit of learning from doing. I have laughed, and lamented, this fact on a number of occasions. I started as an elementary education major in college but I had been working in a classroom for six years by the time I got to college, so was frustrated by the 'research' instead of 'reality' approach I felt occurred in the classroom. One of my favorite academic semesters in college was living and interning in Washington, DC with the Washington Semester Program because the classes and content directly connected to the reality I was living. I have become rather passionate about service-based learning, alternative learning, whatever you want to call it. The idea of taking education out of the classroom and learning from practitioners alongside academics has long been a side interest.

Photo borrowed from Laura H of Macquarie Uni

For the past six months, I have had the privilege to collaborate with a number of other NGOs through a project with Macquarie University in Sydney, Australia called Classroom of Many Cultures. Macquarie puts great emphasis on internships and learning outside the typical classroom (those crazy folks picture above are just some of this team).  Each year, they send dozens of student interns to NGOs around the world (including the Deaf Development Programme). A group of very intelligent professors, dreamed up this idea of co-creating curriculum to be used pre-departure, while the students are in their placements, and after their return to maximize their understanding of the complex social justice and life challenges they face. All to help the students be the best interns (and global citizens) possible – even with issues of culture shock and cross-cultural communication.


When DDP was given the opportunity to be one of the collaborators on this curriculum development, I jumped at the opportunity and then lobbied hard to bring along one of my Deaf colleagues for the adventure. He is the one with the real 'experience' of Cambodia and intimate knowledge of the culture. Plus, as someone who is Deaf in a culture where that is still hugely limiting in many facets of life, his wisdom is mind-blowing.  Fortunately, the team at Macquarie shared my desire to have him involved and put great effort into making that possible (big thanks to them).


I have to admit, my longing to be involved was not a purely altruistic motive. I knew it involved collaborating with folks from around the world and there are few things I love as much as learning about other people's experiences and cultures. There are also few things I love as much as helping others to expand their understanding of the world, tolerance of differences, and passion for exchange.


Bringing along my colleague has been one of the most rewarding parts of my ministry work here in Cambodia. When we went to Australia, he had only ever traveled outside the country to Macau. Needless to say, Australia, seemed to leave his head spinning (literally, as I saw him constantly looking around at all the different 'new' things). This same project took us to Malaysia last month and, again, we were both exposed to many new things while learning of the indigenous community there. One of the biggest contributions I felt in having him there came in his interactions with others. I have been lucky enough to be surrounded and warmly accepted by the Deaf community for more than a year. During this time, I have learned SO much and been forgiven, no doubt, for many dumb hearing blunders. Now, all our fellow-collaborators have been given that same opportunity.


I can imagine it would be rather difficult for my colleague being the only Deaf person surrounded by a bunch of hearing folks, yet he didn't complain.  He found ways to connect with these folks and learn about their cultures and challenges.  I was there in Malaysia primarily as his interpreter, so did my best to interpret anytime conversation was taking place but sometimes I had to break to shovel food into my mouth or rest my arms (I think sometimes he would also need a break as he would sit on the opposite side of the room from me, or when asked if he wanted interpretation, he would say "That is ok"). Because of the nature of the group, many of the other participants were very enthusiastic about learning even basic signs so they could start to communicate on their own. A good number admitted never having had the opportunity to meet a Deaf person and a desire to invest time in learning their national sign language or at least find out what life looked like for Deaf folks in their society.

One of the activities that was led by my colleague was to consider the power structures of each country, because my colleague is Deaf, it forced people to consider where those who are blind, Deaf, or struggling with physical or cognitive differences fall within their society's hierarchy. Most had to come to the realization that they are not included and this made some start to question how that could be shifted.


This whole collaboration experience has indeed been amazing. With representatives from Peru, Malaysia, Fiji, Vietnam, Cambodia, India, Philippines, and, of course, Australia, the perspectives and insights are mind-blowing. We look at the interconnectedness of social justice issues, work place norms, norms around food, gender roles, power structures, team building, child protection and so many other important issues. While all of us involved are social justice minded folks, the 'solutions' and perspectives are varied.


So, why do I share this with you? I thought some of you may be interested in both the outputs and some of the adventures we have had along the way. The great team in Australia has been working tirelessly to put all the knowledge into individual lessons that fall within key modules. All of this will be open-source curriculum. This means, if you are work with students, young people, or adults doing preparation for trips overseas, you can use these resources – developed collaboratively with the NGOs, students, some 'beneficiaries,' and academics. While the target audience is for folks traveling overseas, many of the lessons could be used in domestic social justice programs (so all you post-grad service friends, keep a look out). Or, if you are just involved in social justice activities and interested in seeing opinions from around the world, I promise you will not be disappointed.


You can check out the Vimeo channel now to get a taste of what this experiment has been about and learn about some diverse cultures as you go!  Below is one of my favorite videos but there are dozens more you can access through that link.


Jane Gavel of Peru's Challenge on Food, custom and hospitality from Greg Downey on Vimeo.


If you are interested in receiving access to the completed curriculum, we have helped develop, send me an email. I am putting together a list of people that want to know when it all goes public sometime around August. Enjoy the lessons your life has to offer today!

Branding is not universal

A few weeks back, I was talking with another ex-pat about branding and how what may make sense in one location or culture just doesn't sell in another context.  This got me thinking of some of the 'ridiculous' brand names I have recently seen that would make someone from my culture snicker.  Unfortunately, I did not have a camera accessible when I saw these so you will just need to use your imagination...  Just like the folks that work at one of my favorites, Creative Translations (previously mentioned on Facebook).  I think their slogan should be, We may not understand but at least it will be interesting...

I have also come up with a few helpful visual aids for those of you that have forgotten how to use your imagination...

Hygiene

I think we would all agree that is a good thing.  As defined by dictionary.com:

"noun

1. Also, hygienics. the science that deals with the preservation of health.

2. a condition or practice conducive to the preservation of health, as cleanliness."

But, how would you feel if it appeared on...

... your coffee?  I guess that must be what folks are drinking when they say, "Wow, that coffee really cleaned me out."

But, don't worry, if you are feeling a bit less hygienic (synonyms healthful and sanitary) right next to hygiene coffee, you can get the opposite brand and competition to all things sanitary:

Moving on from coffee, another brand that may not fly in the USA...  I will describe this one for you, so close your eyes...  

 

Yes, those are eyes and, yes, I was kidding.  If you close your eyes, how will you read this?  Your brain will have to multitask...

So, it was a dark and stormy night.  I was biking home from a meeting when a tuktuk pulled in front of me with a very interesting advertisement displayed on the back...

Note: This depiction of a tuktuk is a 100% accurate :)

My eyes caught sight of a beautiful lady draped across a handsome shirtless muscular man (Thus, I assumed they were selling beer because what other image sells more beer).  As I gazed at the man, admiring his well toned pecs and impressively well photo-shopped abs, I saw the waistband of his boxer briefs proudly displayed above his jeans...  Proclaiming to the world... that he was indeed wearing... Dainty Briefs.  I could not make this stuff up.

Last, but not least, is the great apartment building I saw.  Proudly named, The Address.  A name the great Abbott and Costello would no doubt appreciate.

Person A: Sure, we can meet at your place.  Where do you live?

Person B: The Address.

Person A: Sure, the address.

Person B: You know it?

Person A: Uhh... No.  What is the address?

Person B: The building.

Person A: Yes, the building where you live...

Person B: The Address.

Person A: Yes!  The address would be great.

Person B: Good, I'm glad that works as a meeting place.

Person A: But, where?

Person B: The Address.

... and on and on they could go...

 

 

 

Selamat Pagi! from Malaysia

Good morning to you all!  This past week, I had the amazing opportunity to travel to Malaysia for the first time and to experience a side of Malaysia that many likely miss.  I traveled to Sabah, which is on the island of Borneo, to serve as interpreter for one of my colleagues (English to Cambodian Sign Language, and occasionally Khmer when our Cambodian collaborators decided I needed to practice my Khmer).  The meeting was sponsored by Macquarie University in Australia and hosted by PACOS Trust, an outstanding community-led NGO.  We stayed in a homestay in one of the indigenous communities in Kipouvo (the picture above is the view from the porch).

Our host organization formed following a historic land grab in the early 1990s by the Malay government to build the Babagon dam.  I will admit complete ignorance to this situation before my visit, and want to prevent you all from that same ignorance :)  The basics of the story are that the government decided they were going to build a dam and did not consult with the local communities, including the community that would be forcible relocated - abandoning all their ancestral lands and burial grounds (these are sacred spaces within their culture).  By the time the community learned of this plan, and began to organize, they could not prevent the building of the dam (that serves as water catchment to a completely different area, not even providing benefit to those that were evicted from their land).  Some compensation was give to the families but when all your fruit trees and crops must be planted anew, and your entire way of life reconsidered, monetary compensation does little.  Additionally, the houses that were provided were in sufficient or not culturally appropriate, one example being that each house had only two small rooms while traditionally boys, girls, and parents each occupied a separate room.  To this day, some individuals have still not received even the meager compensation that was promised. 

Water release stream (no that is not the technical term) for when the dam is too full.  Fortunately, an alarm system has now been installed to warn of a flash flood but that was not originally a part of the plan.

 

This community (in the relocated site) warmly welcomed us to share their story, their traditional food, drinks, dance, and music.

We also learned about this amazing natural resource preservation approach that many of the indigenous communities in the area practice called Tagal.  As explained to us, the river is divided into different zones (red, yellow, green).  As you may be able to deduce, green zones are places you can fish at any time your heart desires.  Yellow zones are places that you can only fish if you are a pregnant woman in need of food (if you deduced that, you have amazing powers of perception).  And, red zones are governed by a committee made up of community members.  This committee decides when fishing is allowed, often one day per year.  However, contrary to a free for all, pinata smashing, fastest takes all approach, the community divides the spoils evenly among all who participate in fishing on that designated day.  We were able to visit and see a number of the red zones and even help to feed the fish (there is a trick to keeping fish in one place).  As a very tactile person, I drew great pleasure from holding the fish food in my hand and being swarmed by the fish who lovingly suckled the kibble from my fingers.  Images of a random piranha launching from the water to maim me, leaving me incapable of fulfilling my interpreting duties definitely flashed through my head a couple of times...

While in the homestay, some of the community members also shared a traditional blessing with us.  They called all our ancestors' spirits to come join our circle and bring peace, happiness, and community to us all, creating a new family of all those gathered.  It was a very beautiful ceremony to join.  It is also the first time I have been a part of a ceremony that involved sacrificing a chicken.  The blood was then dabbed on each of our hands connecting us as one family (and the chicken was prepared into porridge for lunch, along with the eggs, rice, and other offerings).  I had a very fascinating conversation with one of the group leaders about how the traditional religion has or has not mingled with Islam and Catholicism (both of which seemed very prominent in the region) but I will spare you the details of the hour long explanation.

Sorry, no chicken photos but here is a lovely picture of the road by the Catholic church...

We also went on a bush walk to see where the water for our homestay originated.  There was a water catchment about 15 minutes walk (over trails that would not pass US safety standards and often looked more like landslides) up in the jungle.  It is a gravity based system so the water goes through the piping to a large plastic water tank just up the hill from the homestay.  Apparently, this is a common system used in many of the communities.  The average system costs about $2,300 to install (if I did my mental-math right) and is either purchased through community members sharing the expense or an outside funder sponsoring the system.  One young man is employed to scamper up the trails each week to ensure no leaves or things are obstructing the pipe, cutting off the water to the homestay. 

My co-worker, Narith, who is responsible for all the photos that include me featured in this blog.  We kept seeing tour groups at the airport that had matching clothes so I told him next time, he and I would have to get matching outfits for traveling.  His response was "very funny."  Then, we managed to match even without a plan.  The water barrel even got the memo to wear blue.

Whether it is the chickens, water system, or the many bugs that will sing you to sleep each night (or try to suck out all your blood), whenever I am in rural settings, it astounds me how much, in our daily culture, we have lost that concept of our connection with the earth.  I am truly thankful for those who provided us with the opportunity to reconnect with mother nature through their cultural lense.  Hugs and bugs to you all!

*Please note all the information provided in this blog represents my opinion and take on the situation, as I remember it, so any misinformation is my own.  When interpreting, the goal is to get the information in one side and out the other in the quickest, most coherent way possible, so it doesn't always have time to absorb.  :) 

 

Photo courtesy of Leangchhoung (one of my fellow collaborators)

Sharing Light

Sometimes as we sail along the river of life, I don't think we realize how far our light may be cast.  Nor, do we realize that our rays may be piercing through someone's darkness.  Here are some of those recent moments from my work that have really brought brightness to my life.

1. One of my favorite things to do is bring people together so they can learn from one another and bring out the best in each other.  For the past two months, I have had the distinct pleasure of overseeing a great intern at DDP.  She is one of those people who greets everyone like they are meant to be her best friend and her efforts to learn sign language, even though her time with us is brief, have made a huge impact on the staff.  One of her many talents happens to be teaching swimming.  I love being in a position where I can help facilitate her putting those skills to use for the benefit of folks in our Deaf community.  Some of her new little fish had never before attempted to swim.  Some of these same little fish have only been learning sign language for a month, thus, even if she had been fluent in the language, she still would need great creativity in communications.  Seeing this all unfold really was a highlight of the last few months for me.  It was a good reminder that an ability to bring people together and delegate can allow the light to shine even further than trying to do things on my own.  Especially in this situation because I swim like a cat (not well and I tend to yowl and look like I am about to drown).  Sometimes, formal language is not even necessary. 

 

The young students floating away.

 

I think they are practicing for their synchronized swimming routine...

 

This is my favorite picture, that is the sign for correct. (And, yes, the crazy photographer did climb into the pool with her camera in order to get better photos).

 

This pool is from when Cambodia was a French colony and is over two meters deep.  So, they only fill it part way to create a shallow end... Definitely, a unique experience.

2.  Another reason I have loved having an intern is that she is able to work on projects that have been waiting for a free moment (which usually never comes).  One of her tasks was to put together short videos of Cambodian Sign Language - something visitors, social media followers, and staff had been requesting for a while.  Now, this language can spread a little further.  If you want to learn some sign language (for your next trip to Cambodia), check out the video below and follow our channel on Youtube - where we will be adding a new video each week (three are up so far).

3. My last little anecdote for you is one of those experiences that just make you laugh.  When your co-worker tells you, "If you die today, we will celebrate tomorrow."  Huh?  Translation error? 

So, the context.  At my office, power surges that flip the breaker are not all that uncommon, especially if the A/C in the first floor office, the fridge, and the hot water pitcher are all on simultaneously. Or, the wind is strong.  Or, it is stormy.  Or... you get the picture... Sometimes, the lights stop shining.  

A couple of weeks back, this situation arose and the lights went out.  Many people wait for the maintenance guy or one of the guards to come investigate the situation and flip back the breaker.  I suspect this is for a couple of reasons, one is that it is a nice unplanned coffee break.  The other, is apparently some folks are worried about getting shocked if they touch the circuit breaker.  As the person closest to the magical little box, I heard the switches flip so, in my western logic, walked over to put them back.  As I did this, one of my co-workers said, "Careful not to die."  To which, I responded, "If I do, tell my mother I love her." (This is a version of a line from the movie No Country for Old Men, and likely comes from something else prior to that but is a good example of the many things I say daily that are so US culture, my generation, that they just make no sense to people here, or they miss the point).  It should be noted this co-worker has amazing English and the two of us constantly joke with each other about everything.  For about six months, he insisted on saying good morning to me every time he saw me.  Even at 5pm. 

His response to my message to my mother was, "If you die today, we will celebrate tomorrow."  He then went on to explain (because I acted highly offended), " In Cambodia we have a lot of food, and music, and people get together the day after someone dies so it is like a celebration, you know that.  We don't celebrate because we are happy someone died."  So, how did this bring light to my life?  It made me think of all the hilarious things I am probably saying in my attempts at speaking foreign languages, across foreign cultures that should probably never be taken out of context (and likely don't make sense half the time in context).  A sense of humor is the most important personal flotation device.

So let your light shine and celebrate!